Transcripts from Dictaphone tapes *Transcribed word for word. All unclear recordings marked with an asterisk.
Side One 000 I remembered how beautiful North Devon was, but I had forgotten how hilly it was. It had taken me four and a half hours to get from Plymouth; that involved four bus journeys, and an overnight stop in Ilfracombe. I got a bit of a shock when I got to Lynmouth, this dusty little village, I came across a café and I thought that sounded nice. So I sat down, and well, went to the bar, and I couldn't really believe it- the woman was there with a computer and a mouse taking my order. It seemed far too high tech for this little village. Right- it is mid-day on Sunday [16th June 2002] and I am about to set off. My pack is intact and the dog's tail is a bit droopy but I don’t know if dogs do this normally or not but hopefully he will perk up when he sees some sheep. We saw some sheep in Hatherleigh, some concrete ones, and he barked at them, so it should be quite fun.
015 Every good walk starts with getting lost but now I have just come down [giggle]. I have found my way back on to the path by a helpful local.
017 Christ oh Mighty I have come to another dead end. Oh No! I have only really done ten minutes walking and I am sweating like as pig. This hill is so steep and it’s really hot!
022 I am back on track now and Taco's tail is right up in the air he’s pretty happy.
024 Christ oh Mighty I know why they finish with this hill- it feels like I am going up to heaven it is so high! The sun is clearing anyway and it is blue skies and the air is fresh up here outside the forest, so that is nice.
027 I have just got out of Mertleberry Cleave and hit the crossing, the meeting of the rivers above Lynmouth. I have a feeling this is going to be the most spectacular view, they have got the sea in distance, Lundy Island, sun's coming through the clouds, there is birds below me flying round and there is. Ah! This is just beautiful. Really lush green. In the distance there is Countisbury Hill. And, it's going to be a good day!
036 I am so glad that I started with walk with the first big hill. But to read a guide book backward is quite difficult- I am zigging up or zigging down?!
038 You have not heard from me in a while. I have been cursing the 1:50,000 map because not only does it not have the things you want on it, but it makes things look that little bit closer than they really are. The wind's picking up now, I don't know if you can hear it. But it is nice because there is a really cool breeze with it. I am getting in the rhythm if this walking now, I am getting comfortable with my packback, getting a good pace. And finally, I hope, Taco is actually finally walking to heel. So that's good. Hitting some farm buildings and * looking for some sheep. It's more sort of rolling than it was before not half as dramatic which is nice.
051 I have just worked it out -this map isn’t 1:50,000 but 1:63,000, so I am going even slower than I thought I was [laugh]. Anyway I have done six kilometres and I reckon it is about three o clock although I am not sure. And I have done more uphill today than I think I will be doing in the rest of the journey. Um, Taco has got a bit of * thing going on, he's rolling himself around in the grass- don't know if that's dangerous or not.
059 Christ Oh Mighty *[Noise-Wind ] * It is really hard going.
065 I am just at the top of the Cheriton Ridge and it is slowly turning from farmland to *. Stupid dog is trying to catch the puddles and is totally filthy but, don’t know what he is doing really. He sees the ripples and tries to catch them. Yes. It is starting to get a bit grey.
071 I can faintly see an ice cream van in the distance but I think that might be a mirage? * See anything man made anymore. Um… I am starting to really think who’s idea was this anyway and at the rate I am going it is going to take me about ten days not five!
074 It is really heavy going and my pack is starting to droop and my legs are aching too. And the hill * remotely campable. Don't know what time it is either, so, don't know. Just out of touch with civilisation that's all I suppose.
079 They just don’t make fords like they used to. Just crossing the head of the River Exe, and its quite full. Tried to follow Taco's path, and I thought well I don’t need to take my boots off but *
084 Tacos gone mad we've just gone past about thirty sheep with also some lambs, and we passed them, and he suddenly started whining! Its really sad, he obviously didn’t want to leave them.
087 I have no idea what time it is, I have a feeling it is quite near nighttime, but it is getting cloudy now so cant tell.
089 Camped for the night now, and, right at the centre of two rivers. Right on the flood bank in fact, but never mind. And there’s four hills around me, big rounded bosoms of lush green grass, there’s rabbit warrens which, er, Taco loves. But now we both have had a sort of wash in the river he's pretty tired, not interested in anything like that. He’s just sat on my lap now just being stroked. We have only done 14 kilometres today. The highest height was about 300 metres, but we must have done that three times over coming out of Lynmouth. And then we’ve been walking up and down across through rivers and things like that, so we have done a lot of up and down today. Hoping to get quite a bit more distance tomorrow, perhaps something like 25 miles something like that, that'd be good. Feeling very pleased with myself- so far it has been exactly what I wanted- my own adventure, going somewhere new but somewhere I know I like, and then camping somewhere remote. So I am very pleased. I've got pitta bread to look forward to which isn't really very exciting but never mind. And then I hit the sack I think.
110 [Whisper] I didn’t realise quite how scared I would be * [deleted text]
112 It does cross my mind I wonder if that’s why sunsets are so beautiful so that people stop to rest at night. This place here looks absolutely nothing, in the drizzle, 8am on Monday! We are just setting off anyway and I am looking forward to a good day.
115 I really can't believe how good spirits I'm in. It's misty, if I was driving I would be put my fog lights on and its pretty damp. But I'm feeling really happy.
119 I wonder if I feel so happy because people told not to do it, that I was stupid, mad. I'm not Mrs Mad, I am really enjoying myself, and if takes them to give me the kick and the shove to do it then well thank you because I just feel brilliant! It is going to be good to get in and I know that I have impressed them.
123 Forgot to say, the dog came off the lead this morning, in fact his whole collar came off, when I was inside the tent and I did not realise for quite, you know about a minute or something. Well anyway panic I did, and called him and he came over and I was still sort of anxious to get his collar on, so panicked a bit. But is slipped back on and I though about sort of leading him back up, but *. He didn’t know what had happened to him at [laugh] freedom and then none. Back to prison, oh well. Last night I was scared I tried to retract to text message that I sent to you, to Martin, that was saying I didn’t want any contact with anybody. Well I think I do, because I felt so isolated. No body knew I was there or where I was! Scary. Even the guidebook said it was a lonely spot
134 There was a strange noise last night sounded something like a pig [impersonation]. It sort of … just not quite farm animal, and I started to think of the sort of horrible monsters it might be. Taco too he was quiet, he didn’t even bark or growl at it, which didn’t help. So I thought he was dead at one point - I tried to wake him up with the torch. In the end we had a bit of a cuddle and that cheered me up. Went to sleep, had a good nine hours sleep I reckon. Excellent!
142 Well I am saying goodbye to my last bit of open moor now. It seems like it came and went Exmoor, any way. Just met a couple at Withypool when I was having a pasty, back to some normal refreshments it was quite good. She’d hurt her back so he was walking back to the car which he’d left at Tarr Steps. So we got talking and walked together all the way, got lost a few times and he told me basically all about his work, his name was Dunc… Patrick, and his wife was Linda [Elizabeth] and they live in Herne Bay. I feel great in terms of *
156 I have just turned my mobile phone on just to make contact with someone I work with just to check she could do my shift, which I forgot to do before I left. Got seven messages in my in box and its kind of bitter sweet, communication. … I had to shut my mouth then cos I just went past a big cowpat with loads of flies.
164 Hi I reckon I have got another two hours of walking at least before I get to Knowstone. My feet are killing me, just, no blisters, just sore with the pound pound pound. I have done quite a lot of road walking today. Taco is getting tired he just keeps finding loads of things to sniff and stop. I know there are badgers round here which is apparently what I heard last night, but... I probably should stop but I just want to get to that pub. It sounds so nice, and the village too apparently is beautiful.
177 I’ve just got to this bridge and it says Welcome to Devon and it’s this tiny tiny tiny bridge and this huge sign and it feels so good. Yeah!!!
182 The not so big sign in the distance says one-in –three. Oh well.
185 I forgot to say back there in Hawkridge I asked a boy cleaning his dad’s window if he could get me some water. Anyway it took him ages to come out and he said sorry. ‘Er- Thanks, yes’, and he said something very odd about the water basically saying I don’t know where it comes from; not everyone likes it, some people don’t like it.. And then carried on down the road, four lambs ran after us both. I was quite scared cos they were so not scared of Taco that I started running. Apparently they always do that. But since then, Taco, we’ve seen some sheep, but he has not really reacted., so who knows.
203 Just picked up the phone just now and saw a number and I did not know who it was. Hoped it would be the lady from work who could tell me she could do my shift. Anyway it was some one else, and they sort of filled me in on the gossip, and they were asking me questions like ‘How’s your decorating?’ ‘How’s the rowing?’. It just sounded so trivial, you know up in the Moors. I have turned the phone off now -can’t be arsed with that.
211 I think I must be getting tired, it said West Ainstey 1 mile, but I thought one kilometre. Ooh! Help!
215 We went through some gorsey patches back there and through some tiny ruts and roads. That really hurts my legs- Ow.
210 Today I have done 24 k, which if my maths is right tells me is 15 miles. I am finding hard to believe, but so it is. The last bit of walking today was agonizing, my hips were hurting, my feet were aching, and I was getting hungry and I needed the toilet. Luckily came across a lovely farmhouse which as it turned was serving dinner that evening, so I asked what it was and they said it was lamb, so who could turn that down? I then went and had a gorgeous bath and examined my feet, which have a huge blister on the back and hence my pain. I had hoped to get back earlier than I told everyone, but it looks like my previous estimate was right. No need to rush.
236 It could well be the One Moors Way at the rate I am going! [Laugh]
239 Spoke to some people at dinner and they had been coming here for twenty years. He kept talking about his foot blisters during dinner, wished dearly what they would go away, but instead I had to go away and take my tea upstairs.
245 It is ten past nine- just leaving the Partridge Arms Farm. With its one in three stairs. Everyone is falling in love with Taco telling you what a good dog he is, and he had bacon and sausage from my fried breakfast for breakfast.
248 Quite a lot of road walking today, so I put my trainers on. But I am gonna cross a field now and it is quite hard going, just with trainers and not hard soled shoes. Did I tell you about the old couple in the B&B? Well I had to sit next to them for breakfast as well, and they just kept talking total drivel at each other, kinda arguing but yet clearly both listening to each and talking about things like school uniforms, their home town, Mrs Smith that was going to come round. And then they asked me the same boring shit! I had to stick my head down in to my book and just be polite. I did not want to talk to them at all! In fact they made me leave cos I just wanted to get out!
255 Just met two sets of fantastic walkers, one a German couple who were really big and friendly and smiley, and secondly a couple from Hampshire who’d also done the route South to North. I’m finding trouble reading the guidebook backwards.
261 Don’t know if I have mentioned the flowers I have seen, orchids, fox gloves and also this white sort of tufty like cotton bog grasses.
264 I have a feeling I am getting near Crediton! It’s quite wide road here a crossroads in fact, and the sun has come out, it feels like France but it totally deserted. It is really odd. I am at a place called Backstone Cross.
266 It feels like I’m about half way through the walk now. Don’t know where I am geographically but I can see Dartmoor in the distance, and its certainly not Exmoor anymore. I am just plodding along here just along the road looking at all the flowers in the hedgerows. I have got about six miles of road walking before I change my shoes and get muddy!
271 I wonder if Taco senses he is going home? Because all this time I have been following him- he is leading me basically. It is quite nice actually to keep the pace up to have to follow something, be it dog or car or whatever.
273 I am making really good ground this morning. I must have done about three hours walking but certainly covered about twelve kilometres if not a little bit more. At this rate I should be at Morchard Bishop tonight for sure, possibly a little bit further. If I am a little bit further of course it means I can get home quicker which really basically is what is driving me.
278 Just put my boots on again and it is a case of mind over matter. My legs are just so stiff I look like a right cripple. Um I have patched up my blisters, um they are really not giving me that much trouble now but I just can’t walk properly! Even last night my body was so stiff I struggled to eat my delicious roast lamb properly. Oh well only another 60 miles to go! [Laugh]
288 I had a lovely break back there by a farm gate, had some food, fed Taco, bit of a drink, put new plasters on and it was really relaxing in the sun. But it seems a million miles away from this aching walk that I am having at the moment. I am trying to keep up a good pace, and think positive, i.e. no pain. But I don’t know how long I can keep that up for. It seems to be better if better if I stand tall and talk wide. Probably hear a tractor in the distance.
299 The sun is really bright now, blue skies, totally contrary to what the weather forecast said. Not that the weather forecast was wrong, its just that if you change your plans according to it then its invariably gonna rain. But if you continue doing whatever it was you were planning to do anyway, you might just be lucky and escape. Apparently the day I arrived was pouring down, but I as walking and I didn’t see a single bit of it. Funny.
315 I am so glad I ignored everyone’s advice about bringing a Trangia cooker. I don’t know if I could have coped with the extra weight!
Side Two 000 It’s so important to listen to your own feelings. Like something simple like getting the bus or not, or the train up to Lynmouth. I wanted to take the bus but it seemed practical to take the train, so… But what do I want do, well I wanted to take the bus and I did!
011 This is totally ridiculous I am stuck in a kissing gate. I mean how stupid is that? Why don’t they just build them bigger? I mean who needs a kissing gate anyway I am on my own for god’s sake!
016 It is 3 o clock and I have just left Hawkridge. Its through one of the naffest part of the Walk so far. A cul de sac with these shiny bungalows on it, anyway we are set to go.
025 I have just had to jump over five lots of electric cable! Not nice.
029 And after another set of electric cable it was heading across a field, just trying to get just past the mud pile and then realizing the mud pile was bigger than I thought it was and it was actually manure. So me and the dog were both kind of smelly for a while.
035 Just going through a very smelly Sourton Basset- is it famous for eggs for milk something like that?
039 Here the route differs from that on the map. Got told off by some twat of a farm labourer. ‘Well sign posted’ he said. Yeah- like two tiny signs are really well sign posted.
048 Well signposted one way- there is even a map coming the other way, but not the other way which I am going north to South.
052 I have just electrocuted by a fence and I am really upset. [Sob]. So I left the gate open which should serve them right. I mean why don’t they put a strip of plastic on it so people don’t hurt themselves? Wankers. This farm is huge- obviously owned by the same … people, they have got factories in the middle. Gave me hell of a shock literally. Not nice when you are on your own.
064 Just been through my second gate, which I left open, and then suddenly had a pang of conscience. I mean who’s it hurting? I think the cows most of all and that s not what I want to do. It’s just the sort of think I would tell other people not to do. Let it go.
072 Taco just come across a dead sheep, and he was very curious sniffing about and suddenly he jumped because he realized that was dead. Quite funny.
075 Just walking down a lane and moved over to the side so the car could get past. Not a smile- quite amusing really. They seem to think that because they are in a car they rule the road; well it is shared when there is no pavement.
081 Just got a phone call from Jen the dog’s owner and she wants him back she is missing him. But she can’t have him he is all mine now! And she’d never find us anyway. But she rang me up on my mobile, and I felt so conscious of the batteries. Sometimes when you really want a conversation to finish it just doesn’t.
089 Just going past the battery farm. The chickens sound like they are going through some mourning ritual its disgusting- they sound like they are all dying.
093 Just taken my boot off and my socks off, and had a little look at my little toe, left toe. And I shall describe it to you… [laugh]. Between the two toes; my little toe and the big toe, all the skin between them has come off. And it is not just like little rubbed sort of thing, it’s a big sort of gaping flap of skin. I have managed to sort of pad up and stuck together but its not pretty. Its gonna take a week at least to heal. My feet are going to look like a mess. No pain no gain? Dunno. Could go home now I suppose. Ring someone up. No one is forcing me do this. Why carry on? Because I am sat on a lush green hill top, birds are singing, calves are mooing, the sun shining, faint clouds in the sky but just sort of like dusting of clouds, trees everywhere, I cant see a single soul, one house. And I am on my own, and my dog and I feel very comfortable, apart from my foot that is.
132 Because I am getting tired now I keep checking the map, so its good when we got to this field there’s a clear-cut path through the grasses. Suns coming quite low now so I guess it is time think about stopping. My foots hurting a bit, but um my mind was taken off it by the bog we just walked through. Taco still hasn’t got the knack of picking out a dry path.
146 We must have done about 26 miles today, and the two of us keep, just now, just stopped. And I was waiting for him, he was waiting for me, we were both knackered.
149 My map reading has certainly improved over the years, but it is still quite annoying when you have to follow a set route, like this one is is surprising the distances. And you tend to sometimes ignore your map reading instincts and follow the signs
157 Going past some interesting looking barley fields with barbered wire round the outside? Hate to think if that is GM or not.
160 As you can imagine, all I was dreaming about for the past two hours was stopping, so when we got to Beech Cottage and the sign for camping was gone I started to get suspicious where would we have to stay? I thought about carrying on but it was just getting too late, getting dark and I’d have to go through forest and I had already fallen over quite a few times. So I have gone through to Beech Cottage through the gate and through to this kind of paddock, and we are near this tree and I can see this horse wandering round. So what I am going to do is wait until it gets a bit more dusky and quickly pack up tent and make sure I am up early in the morning. I have also fed my dearest dog the worse pack of food he may ever have to taste. This pedigree dog is having Happy Shopper called Dog Chubb. Yummee chicken flavour. What have I got for tea? Well, probably pitta bread again.
183 It is past midnight and the church bells have rung and I cant image I am going to get much sleep tonight. My right foot has blisters and is really really painful. [Sigh] I have decided I hate camping I hate tents they are so vulnerable. I don’t feel particularly comfortable knowing there is an oak tree above me. Houses to the left, dog to the right horses up the field, and humans not so far away and they’re the scariest. I would quite like to be home at the moment. I am seriously wondering whether it was a sensible thing to do; to carry on. If I had more plasters, some foot protection with me, I might go without thinking twice. But I don’t think my feet are as strong as they could be. [Sigh] When I think about it, I could just about do it in two days, but that would mean doing 25 miles a day and I won’t manage that yet I don’t think. What do you think?
209 Just looking after the alarm. It is 7 o clock. Even Taco is still asleep. I can see he is jumping about basically dreaming about people *. He is going to run a mile when he next sees me next.
216 Well am I glad to get out of that place! Big iron gates and a bit of an eerie feel. It is a gorgeous day, really really sunny, its gonna be beautiful.
220 Coming to the conclusion that I actually might be Mrs Mad! I am filthy, look a right mess, cant walk properly, up at half past seven, and aiming to do 25 miles. I think something’s going funny!
225 Just pasted a lovely with flowers round it, and asked for some water, and got talking to Burt. Who married, he’s got two brothers, and all three of them married three sisters,. Very charming. Only been in Plymouth once, 1954.
229 When Taco came off his lead yesterday, well he got caught up in a tree, and unhooked himself from his collar, and just sat there patiently. Waiting for me to put his collar back on so I wonder who was leading who?
233 Just told a hundred sheep to shut up. I think I am in a bad mood.
236 Just didn’t expect it to hurt this much. I mean I imagined being mugged, breaking my ankle, er, you know losing the dog. Not just general pain, and bruising, didn’t predict that at all.
240 Isn’t that ironic to be met by someone just as you are picking your nose! Probably met all of about ten groups of people since starting the walk. Um, looking at my map I have got 4 kilometres, between this map and the next map, and looking through the guidebook, ironically I have three kilometres of road walking. So that should be fine as it will be sign posted.
248 Just got foxed by some brambles, and some unclear way marks. Slight detour!
250 Just sat down for a break with Dina from Sheffield, she passed me in a Murray mint. She’s a vegan.
253 Oh! Was that my first drop of rain? My one and only drop of rain?
254 This afternoon has been a long hard slog, very slow going. And all I am dreaming about is a Coke endlessly, but who knows if there is a shop there.
258 Well I sure am a Devon girl, there is nothing like being at home, I mean it is so much better than everywhere else.
260 I am now very aware how long two miles is!
262 Just been speaking with an Irish Canadian for about an hour. And made me pronounce the word part over and over.
263 Did my first shortcut, well long cut actually. I’ve changed from my small-scale map to my large-scale map and therefore missed the turning so I’m doing a bit more road walking.
265 [Heavy Traffic] The sound of civilization eh?
267 I suppose the difference between splashing out and getting ripped off, is how much you enjoy it. I’ve just come to this village where there was no other place to stay except this one. £37.50 for the price of a shower, a picture with an Edwardian lady and a Dalmatian on, and this horrendous patterned wallpaper, and dubious service. Met Matt from the village, who tried to get me a place somewhere else, but then mysteriously disappeared when there was none, no other room
273 Just get the feeling a wall went up by Drewsteignton. Couldn’t have made it to Chagford today I was literally shattered. Couldn’t walk another inch. Even when I got chips from the local pub, they came with spring onions on top! Very nice but very posh.
276 Take it back -all is forgiven! They’ve got hot chocolate, digestive biscuits, and jam dough- three jammy rings. So I am getting to like this place now. And I can’t be bothered to go to the pub. Can I?
278 I am a bit less than five miles from Chagford, so * and it hurts. Hopefully it will be downhill from now. Who am I kidding?
280 9 o clock and just leaving Drewsteignton. Not as bad as I thought is was despite the organic Heinz ketchup and the dreadlocks.
283 The guidebook described the mid Devon hills as dumpy, and now I look back I can see that they are. Totally dumpy! [Laugh]
284 Did I mention that I had ten hours sleep and could have slept more? I am knackered.
285 I am in the Teign Gorge now and wondering if the word gorgeous comes from somewhere like this. Forest over every hill, and also for the first time I’ve seen some fire beaters -Never seen them before- hung up upon a stand.
286 Even outdoors like this makes you realize how easy it is to get agoraphobic. Scary places wildness!
289 I feel it under my feet, bruised on the path, much easier on softer ground, going uphill as well.
290 I have to keep pirouetting round Tacos lead as well, because he keeps getting mixed up with my legs.
292 Yeah! I can see Dartmoor! And I can see the church of Chagford as well! Yeah. Nearly home! [giggle]
293 There is a one in six hill warning on this road outside Chagford. That’s nothing!
294 I have just spent the last half an hour climbing a very long hill. I think I am definitely definitely coming up to the National Park.
295 I had planned to stop at Teigncombe for a break, but I could hear bulldozers and heavy vehicles- they are building some traditional new buildings.
296 Day Four and a Half and finally I am back on access land. Open moor; grass underfoot. Nice. No pain anyway.
297 Just went through a field signposted Stallion and his Mare. It was quite scary until we were passed them.
299 This is lovely innit. Dog Owners. To avoid worrying ewes and disturbing nesting birds from the 1st May to the 15th July all dogs must be kept on a lead. Dartmoor Commoners Council. There you go so I was being right and fair.
301 Taco stopped for a rest; so did I. And starting back walking again, the pain and stiffness is unreal.
302 Poor little love he’s running off again. The Sheep! * I can see the muscles on him build up he’s gonna be a strong dog.
304 Amazing how your map reading skills go out the window when you can see an ice cream van. I know where we are quite near the Warren House Inn. So right at the top of that hill is an ice cream, and there is something shiny glowing on the top of the hill and I think that is where we are gonna end up. Another bottle of Coke I think, or two.
307 * That’s a bit of mega history! I’ve just carried Taco over the hills, he, er… well we walking along some pillow mounds, really boggy and he got all water all over his face. And he then unslipped himself from his collar. There was nothing I could do but carry him really. He didn’t want to go any more.
309 Its meant to be a van; fucking minibus isn’t it! Well spot on navigation I am very pleased with that.
311 Now here is some gentle noises to finish the tape with. This is Taco and him rolling on the floor. [Silence- End of tape]
Side Three 000 I have just realised this is the longest day of the year 2002 today. So there’s no excuse to stop walking early, or should that have been no excuse to not walk late?
004 This is a very satisfying moment, I am stood on top of the hill near Shapley Tor, close to Widecombe, and I know I can see about fifty miles maybe north, maximum ten south. But I know that I’ve walked all this, you know, as far as the eye can see I have walked it. That’s a pretty tremendous feeling actually. In fact I’ve probably walked further than I can see. Wish I’d brought my binoculars- if I could have taken the weight anyway. Beautiful.
015 Just doing a little bit of singing there- bit of Abba, bit of Queen, George Michael, Elton John, Beatles classics. Yeah * I have to say.
019 That’s it now- saying goodbye to North Devon. Definitely south now so over the hill. Probably done about 80 miles now. It is bittersweet really, finishing. Maybe I should it again; perhaps I should create some postcards and sell them as I go.
025 Christ I was lucky- I got very distracted by this lovely square sort of block like tor. We’d have headed off the wrong way, except for spotting Grimspound quite magnificently. I like it there. So may be its not goodbye for North Devon for a while!
027 Just watching an older couple have shag just by Grimspound. What is funny is that only a few minutes ago just talked about really kind of vague things about walking and how far, and they really I suppose, wanted me to go! [Laugh]. Oh that’s quite funny! Mind you they wont be the first to have had sex in Grimspound. I am sure all the families that used to live there would have done quite a lot.
044 I am actually at the highest point of the walk which is Hameldown Tor 529 metres.
045 I am really glad that I did this walk on my own, because lots more nature comes out to see you. Like the deers or those rabbits, sheep, horses they are not so sort of aware of a group coming. But at the same time I am really I have got the dog because he’s company- he’s pulling me along right now. But he is making me more aware of how I’m just part of nature. You know, seeing the reactions from the sheep the cows etc, that I would not have got had I been without him. Quite nice to see that going on.
063 It’s very exposed on this ridge down. It’s getting quite chilly.
067 My god I am on a South Dartmoor map! I can’t believe it!
069 Feeling very despondent now. Just spent the past hour being pulled by my poor dog. He, earlier in the day he begged for some treats and I didn’t have any. I was hoping to get somewhere where we could get some in time. But now its nearly seven o clock and we are still walking and... I thought well you know, it was important that I should have some food and something to drink, so I rang on a doorbell and asked for some water. I saw the walking boots outside so I thought he might be a good bet. Oh no, he said, go down to the spring down there. Which I did and there was hardly any water. Not particularly friendly of him I don’t think
092 Good job I am actually not on my last legs waiting for food and water. Would I have got the same reaction? Hardheartedness of the Educated. [Huff]
096 And to round things off I am not going to Holne.
098 We are within 400 metres of a pub. It is not in sight but I know its there. And I can’t wait just to get there.
104 I feel pretty bloody shit for not feeding my dog properly
106 Came in to the pub and was advised to order sausages; I thought may be fish or steak. Anyway I feel terrible, poor bloke poor chap. Anyway what am I gonna do
112 Ironic he is named after a food innit?
114 [Whine x7] That was Taco getting hungry!
121 So my little detour has taken two kilometres of the route.
125 Poundsgate beats Ponsworthy any day - I have just met about five really nice people here. Did I tell you about the person who wants to mate his dog with Taco?
130 A lovely couple have asked me, I asked them if they’d move their car in front of my tent so I could feel safer at night. And they did that and then they asked me out for a cup of tea or for breakfast in the morning. And then they said they were going to watch the match and I thought that would be really nice- who will it be England or Brazil?
140 [Silence] Just wanted you to hear Taco barking.
147 Well that was Lower Aish Farm near Poundsgate, and I’ve been treated to fried breakfast, tea coffee, toast. And even Taco’s had some luncheon meat and some water and some bread. Yummee! It’s been such a nice day! Just watched the England score one goal -and saw Brazil score one goal as well but never mind. And they were so welcoming to this complete stranger- I don’t know if they took pity on the dog or what because they can see that he was tired. But it was really nice of them.
161 Feeling a bit down at the moment, I work out its probably another 15 miles but in terms of time it means another 7 hours more walking, meaning I wont get back until just before tea time. Er, oh well, I mean had a nice breakfast, although that naturally took up more time, but maybe I will walk faster with all the food inside me.
170 Holne. Three and a half miles backwards, that means I am at Ivybridge in eleven and a half! Will I be happy?!
175 Feel quite um, well feel happy right now, feel quite tired. Um, a little bit down. I was so pleased to get to 85 miles, to get to Widecombe, past Widecombe, but this just the final slog. And I am celebrating already really, but yet I still have to walk some more.
183 How odd. I have just come across a live fire with, um Thompsons pages in, some jumpers alight, an Ireland sweatshirt. So I got a metal bar and tried to put it out. But of course cos it was flammable clothing it just started burning. But I kept, put aside the bit with the Ireland sticker on. I won’t ring 999 but I’m gonna report it anyway. It was guy, an old guy, white hair, with a sort of silver gold old style Astra or Cortina. Came up from the south side of Scorrition, up the lane, and at the moment we are at grid reference, something like oh grid square 69 68. Wonder if that will come to anything. Hopefully not!
205 What made me suspicious was it had an address book in there, a blue blanket and a green something or other. And it’s a one-way track and I haven’t seen him come back down. I know there are some buildings so maybe he’ll be there.
211 Thinking about it may be I did see a car come back down. I was doing my mobile phone at the time, and I remember the time on my mobile was 10:20 so he must have come up at about 10:10 or something on Friday.
216 Well I’m in the middle of the bleak Dartmoor, no one around me, and I’m at or coming up to Hicaton Hill, well that’s assuming I read the map properly! Its windy, its cloudy, and I’m perking up and its actually beginning to hurt less to run than it is to walk. So that’s what I am going to do.
224 As suspected took slightly the wrong path. It’s quite actually easy to get led astray literally.
227 Having a bit of bleak and barren moment on the Moor. Were not lost we are just off the path And this hill seems never ending!
231 Can just see two walkers in the distance. What a relief! The sight of another human!
232 Two happy chappies from Exeter. Very nice to talk to very friendly.
235 Super achievement they said!
236 Boy Oh Boy am I happy! I am practically on the disused train track back to Plymouth, or Ivybridge. Hurrah! Can’t believe I’ve got here. Its just downhill, gentle downhill on a track all the way now. [Laugh]. I can even see Tit Hill above Hemerdon! I can’t believe it!
243 My advice to people would be if they want to do the Two Moors Way, do it style, do it in bed and breakfasts, hotels what ever. Forget the weight on the back of your back pack. But at the same time, days like this out on the Moors I know I am safe. You know, if it comes to the crunch I can put up my tent and camp down. Whereas… so that gives me sort of quite a lot of security.
251 I have even put on Tacos coat on now, and I have to say he looks pretty majorly ridiculous! With a sort of red and green Christmas sort of tartan, and a size that’s just far too big for him; so there's all dangling Velcro on the floor. But long as he’s warm that’s the main idea.
256 I was really looking forward to the view coming over the Moors, approaching Plymouth, and to see over to Torquay and down in to Ivybridge. But I think with this cloud it is going to be unlikely, unfortunately. But the pub at least awaits, and there’s home and its comforts.
264 [Singing] Here comes the Rain Da Da Da Here comes the rain De De De
267 Bumped into another bloke. Very friendly. All these good positive vibes everywhere along this Way!
269 He’s doing the Two Moors Way, he’s from Plymouth, but doing the Two Moors Way northwards. Its not the same for me- I love that magnetic pull to home.
271 Still no rain, but I am up in the clouds and I can see them hanging below me. Funny.
273 [Accidental recording of walking pace]
285 Really must remember to press stop when I record! Anyway it’s my final stretch, my final tor, I think, I hope! My thoughts now are far from joyous elation, its got cold, I hurt and I’m very tired, and to make matters worse I’ve arranged a meeting up with people and it looks like I’ll be late. I think of all those things, I think the last is probably the most important to me. Anyway I’ll let them know that I will be late, so that’s ok. But it’s a slightly funny time really. My thoughts are sort of grey really, not, like I say not the full of joy like I expected to be, and I am certainly not full of beans! Everything seems to hurt, however in a moment I don’t think I will have ever been so glad to see Ivybridge, little town that it is. It is going to be quite important to me.
308 I’m getting my rain now, it’s about an hour to the end now, and it’s starting to drizzle. Never mind!
310 Come on Taco, take it in, these are your last sheep! I don’t think the strain on the lead can take it any more…
313 Just come off the Moor through a gate, where there was a tiny tiny little sign saying, this little symbol two Ms, well one M and one W together to make the Two Moors sign. And just a tiny little sign there, meant a lot. It meant I nearly got to the end!
322 I can’t believe I’ve nearly done it [sob], I mean 100 miles on my own [sniff], with the help from little chap. It’s just amazing that we are given bodies like this, and beautiful places to walk in. Unbelievable! Can’t believe it!
328 Just had my last pee in the outdoors!
329 Over the past 24 hours, Taco has been pulling harder and harder at the lead. I think he knows he’s going home. I think he can smell the sea.